The Quest for C2

The weather in the morning was quite good. Thus at about 8 am we started our way to C2 but not that easily as we still hoped for a bit. For about 40 minutes we had been trying to find the start of the route but no signs mentioned by the Aussie were there. Meanwhile Jan sank two times into hidden cracks, the second was quite bad. But we were fixing each other on the rope so it ended up fine. During our search for where to start on the ice slope we noticed steel grey clouds cumulating over the valley. Hence Jan said: "We go back". Well, I was tired of all that going back so I evaluated the contemporary situation in my mind. It seemed that for about 30 mins the clouds were not able to reach from over the valley to us. No alarming decrease of the barometric pressure on my Suunto either. I turned towards the summit and said: "Well, let's go up".

Note the crack in the lower right corner

Slightly to the right next to the biggest disruption on the ice slope, then right onto the disruption and traversing to the left. There was quite a lot of new snow but I knew we were going to make it. I went first because I exactly knew where I wanted to climb through this wild icefall. We were perfectly acclimatized and in 40 mins we were over and on the ice slope edge. Jan was really happy: "Super, great job!" Well, he had no idea yet that I would send him to start from the edge as the first from us. Jan's a grinder as well so I wasn't afraid that he wouldn't make it. Then we see far in the distance a tiny sign from the Aussie pointing the direction of climbing up. I was really happy that I chose the right place to start on the slope. Jan went first and both of us were wading through a deep snow on and on to the saddle. Right before reaching the saddle it was me who sank into a crack. Feet were floating in a free space and upper part of my body was bent over the crack's edge. I shouted towards Jan to fetch me up but he replied that I should crawl more upfront. I felt that my belly and stomach were pressing towards a remnant of an ice bridge that could had collapsed at any time. Then it would be quite serious. Thus Jan really had to fetch me up from that dangerous crack. In another half an hour we were building C2. I believe it's the key point for the success of our summiting. Right there at 7000 m.