Today is the 25th. We are looking up towards the summit where the weather must be crazy and terrible (see the picture below). Down here sun is shining but we can hardly see the mountain covered in the clouds.
What next? We have the weather forecast from French mountaineers. It reads that throughout Saturday and Sunday there should be no wind on the mountain. Since we felt fantastic in C2 we will go to C1 on Friday, then to C2 on Saturday, on Sunday to C3 and on Monday at 2 am we will try for the summit. But we will not be alone. At that time about 40 mountaineers should be climbing the mountain altogether with few sherpas. Most probably also the Aussie and the New Zealander will go up as well with their sherpa. But as we experienced we shouldn't be counting on any cooperation. But we found the way onto and crossed the important ice fall, we know where the danger is waiting. The corridor to the saddle is then there (with C3) and then the edge leading up to the summit. If the forecast is right you should be pressing your thumbs for us on Monday April 30 then. We will need it.
Have a nice day,
Miro Caban and Jan Matyasek
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