Hurrying Back to C2

It kept snowing for the whole night and in the morning the wind got so strong that we could leave the tent around 10 am only. We left the tent meant for C3 standing where it was and hurried back in the storm down to C2 where we had the better equipped and larger tent for three persons. We spent there the rest of the day. Maybe it was even good since we could relax a bit after the demanding climb through the deep snow not even two days ago.

The Weather Turned Its Back To Mountaineers This Year

We were a bit tired in the morning but very determined to use the favorable weather forecast to our best thus we continued to C3. In the middle of the moderate yet long climb to the saddle we met the Australian climber, his New Zealander colleague and their sherpa. We learned that during the days of our relaxation and getting ready for the summiting they had been waiting for the supposedly good weather days. Today is Sunday when the weather should had been the best of all thus they tried for the summit but couldn't accomplish even with the help of their sherpa. Lot of snow, avalanche danger and very complicated mixed terrain stopped them. By the way the Australian climbed 11 eight-thousanders so far. While we talked a strong snow storm came upon us. Me and Jan even didn't try to continue to C3 and built our tent right after saying goodbye to the other mountaineers. The height was 7040 m.

Off For the C2

It was snowing throughout the whole night. I just couldn't believe that! But the dawn spread out nice so we set C2 as our day's goal. We made i through the ice labyrinth rather fine but right since then a tough workout started while we had to walk in the deep fresh snow. Yet we performed well as we reached C1 in 5 hrs from the start. Our backpacks were loaded with gas bombs, enough food for longer stay at C2 and a big North Face tent for three people. All that for the chance that we would get pinned at the 7000m of the C2 by bad weather. Since we also carried additional stuff like sleeping bags and pads or cameras our load started to seem 'immoral' during the climb from C1 to C2. I think we reached the bottom of our physical capabilities. But we made it. Totally drained out but truly happy we ditched into our sleeping bags about 7 pm. Yet, Jan decided to cook something, I can tell you frankly that he's quite an eater and has the taste in fact anywhere and under any conditions, and got finished about 9 pm. At that time it was about minus 30 degrees Celsius outside.

To Set Off or Not To Set Off?

On Friday 27^th we planned to leave ABC for the deposit camp and then continue straight to C1. The weather forecast promised very good conditions but until the early morning 20 - 30 cm of new snow fell in. How much could it be then up on the mountain? While we were getting up we could see that it was heavily snowing along the whole climb route. Good for Jan, I thought first considering his recent agony. Though he looked quite alright we both were not really sure and thus considered the breakfast as the 'truth teller'. It ended up alright, no more convulsions nor diarrhea, thus after the lunch time we decided to leave yetl today but to sleep over at the deposit camp.

Alien in the Stomach

The Murphy's Law says that something not much positive happens exactly at the most important moment. Just like this was the day originally meant for total relaxation and packing of all the stuff necessary for the summiting. Normally leisure and then focus. But as Jan got up in the morning he exclaimed that he hadn't slept really throughout the night. Intensive convulsions accompanied with diarrhea kept teasing him for the night and he could hardly move in the morning. Immediately, medicaments were applied but only the diarrhea stopped and Jan kept wincing. He was trying to convince me that it would be alright by the next morning but I knew that we would not leave the camp by that time at all. The convulsions were still that strong that Jan was silently groaning yet at 10 pm. At that moment I got the idea to give him our traditional medicament, the charcoal, which finally helped him.

The Time Schedule for Summiting

Today is the 25^th. We are looking up towards the summit where the weather must be crazy and terrible (see the picture below). Down here sun is shining but we can hardly see the mountain covered in the clouds.

What next? We have the weather forecast from French mountaineers. It reads that throughout Saturday and Sunday there should be no wind on the mountain. Since we felt fantastic in C2 we will go to C1 on Friday, then to C2 on Saturday, on Sunday to C3 and on Monday at 2 am we will try for the summit. But we will not be alone. At that time about 40 mountaineers should be climbing the mountain altogether with few sherpas. Most probably also the Aussie and the New Zealander will go up as well with their sherpa. But as we experienced we shouldn't be counting on any cooperation. But we found the way onto and crossed the important ice fall, we know where the danger is waiting. The corridor to the saddle is then there (with C3) and then the edge leading up to the summit. If the forecast is right you should be pressing your thumbs for us on Monday April 30 then. We will need it.

Have a nice day,

Miro Caban and Jan Matyasek

Leaving C2 Under the Veil of Bad Weather

The second day the terrible wind was returning. We quickly packed up and ran down back to the safety. But it was too late. After 10 minutes the sky became dark and it started to snow heavily. The wind was growing and then right in the middle of the ice fall a fog came down. The situation became milky serious. We had to stop completely. " We must wait until the fog weakens" I said to Jan. I remembered that perhaps only few meters ahead was a big crack that we had to jump over. After 15 mins the fog weakened for a while and we jumped over the crack successfully. Then we traversed the ice edge, crossed another crack and Jan took over the leadership the rest of the way to C1. In another 6 hours we sat in the ABC and drank Coke. That was on April 24.

The Quest for C2

The weather in the morning was quite good. Thus at about 8 am we started our way to C2 but not that easily as we still hoped for a bit. For about 40 minutes we had been trying to find the start of the route but no signs mentioned by the Aussie were there. Meanwhile Jan sank two times into hidden cracks, the second was quite bad. But we were fixing each other on the rope so it ended up fine. During our search for where to start on the ice slope we noticed steel grey clouds cumulating over the valley. Hence Jan said: "We go back". Well, I was tired of all that going back so I evaluated the contemporary situation in my mind. It seemed that for about 30 mins the clouds were not able to reach from over the valley to us. No alarming decrease of the barometric pressure on my Suunto either. I turned towards the summit and said: "Well, let's go up".

Note the crack in the lower right corner

Slightly to the right next to the biggest disruption on the ice slope, then right onto the disruption and traversing to the left. There was quite a lot of new snow but I knew we were going to make it. I went first because I exactly knew where I wanted to climb through this wild icefall. We were perfectly acclimatized and in 40 mins we were over and on the ice slope edge. Jan was really happy: "Super, great job!" Well, he had no idea yet that I would send him to start from the edge as the first from us. Jan's a grinder as well so I wasn't afraid that he wouldn't make it. Then we see far in the distance a tiny sign from the Aussie pointing the direction of climbing up. I was really happy that I chose the right place to start on the slope. Jan went first and both of us were wading through a deep snow on and on to the saddle. Right before reaching the saddle it was me who sank into a crack. Feet were floating in a free space and upper part of my body was bent over the crack's edge. I shouted towards Jan to fetch me up but he replied that I should crawl more upfront. I felt that my belly and stomach were pressing towards a remnant of an ice bridge that could had collapsed at any time. Then it would be quite serious. Thus Jan really had to fetch me up from that dangerous crack. In another half an hour we were building C2. I believe it's the key point for the success of our summiting. Right there at 7000 m.

Return to C1

Me and Jan relaxed in the ABC for the following two days. On the third day (April 21) we went up to the deposit camp. On the way up we met the two mountaineers and sherpa who managed to make it to the second altitude camp. We asked how it went and how was the way up through the ice fall full of cracks. The Australian guy just said: "All super, everything is easy. The route is marked, no risk from cracks anymore". Hence I thought to myself that we could possibly cooperate while trying for the summit.

When we were closing on C1 the next day it became clear to us. No markings, no sign where to start the way to C2 on the ice wall. "Well .., let's see tomorrow" I said to Jan. Instead of speculating whether we will find some signs we zipped our sleeping backs around us and slept quietly.

Forced Out from the C1 Again

Last time I was sending a message over the phone we were back at the C1 altitude camp. 120 km/h wind had been raging around our tent for a whole day and night. It was terrible. I already experienced something like this on Cho Oyu where a hurricane pinned us in our tent for four days. Here Jan started to speak about claustrophobia already after one day. Well, it's nothing pleasant to be stuck in between narrowing tent walls in that tiny space. In the morning the wind weakened for a while so we quickly left. It was the second time we had to leave C1 without attempting for C2. Only after half an hour the wind was raging at its full power again. The powerful performance continued until the evening and onwards. Back in the ABC I found out that I left keys from the barrels in C1. The phone was of course locked in one of those so I couldn't send a message..

During the descent through the ice labyrinth we met first mountaineers. An Australian and a New Zealander accompanied by their sherpa. The Aussie said it was his fourth time here and he highly regarded our finding a way through the labyrinth and safely up to the C1. To pay back for our info and work he promised to help us to mark the way to C2. Well, if they will have a better luck and the weather will let them up to C2.

Back in ABC we caught yet up with Jiri Jakubec who had been already waiting for a yak. He told us that the Liaison Officer in fact told him that he would send a horse for Jiri's one barrel. Jiri was the third member of our small team and he was to climb with us only the first mountain Shisha Pangma. The fortune and the mountain turned their back to him and he didn’t summit. Same as us but Jiri’s time has come to an end and he’s now returning back to the Czech Republic.

We are sitting tired in the ABC. Jiri's time is slowly running. It becomes more obvious that the mountain most probably will not allow him to its peak. The snow conditions, acclimatization problems, weather, clearness through the icefall and other factors, which a man cannot influence, play a decisive role in the climber's success. But Jing and Jang work as well. So a hairy hope is still there. Nevertheless, Jiri has been the grinder and the engine of our small team at Shisha Pangma.

What next?
It's been a hell up there and the forecast had been correct. Yet, the rough combination of strong wind and some sun might help with unveiling the dangerous cracks in the ice. We know we have to be heading more to the right. Thus we will wait a day or two and will try for C1 again but better after consulting with the sherpas. After all that searching for a route we feel like the first Himalayas pioneers. Pity the icefall hasn't been more homogenous since we would be higher and further with our climb up by now.

Friday 13: Accident on the Way from C1

In the evening the wind got stronger. So right from the early morning I had been watching the ridge but saw no one. At least I was comforting myself that both of them had enough power and made it to the C1 which I couldn't see from here. The agreement between us was clear so I departed for ABC. The forecast for the 14th and 15th of April was announcing a very strong wind which meant to go down from C1. I really hoped that they would follow it. But still at 9 am I could see nobody thus I was getting really worried. I kept stopping now and then on my way down and popped my sights at the ridge.

Back in the ABC I could only speculate and hope since the corridor couldn't be seen from here. Our cook Kipa made a quizzical smile towards me and asked: Coke or beer? He had had me. I had no idea that we had such an offering of drinks with us! Up to then I only knew tea and again tea as the drink of drinks. Well. few days of a tea diet and one starts feeling to have enough of it. Though I'm not a drinker I emptied two cans of beer with a delight.

At about 6 pm, big Hurray!, as my friends are back. But with some bad news though - in the middle of a beautiful corridor Jan sank in.

It was on the way back while pressing another one out of hundreds steps into the veil of white snow. But this time the virgin-like blanket, unscathed of steps or signs of depressions, was spreading over another crack in the ice, in fact over an endless hollow as was discovered later. There was an ice bridge stretching over the big crack which collapsed as Jan crossed over. Since it was on the way down and Jan was almost kind of running the momentum luckily bounced him upfront and out! Thus Jan was saved. Both of them inspected the crack afterwards only to find out that all around the collapsed ice bridge an endless hollow went down, maybe right into the heart of the mountain and into the arms of gods. Better not to think about other possible scenarios.

Luckily, all three of us are here in ABC and we must relax after all that carrying of equipment up there to C1. Also, we must wait for the sun and let it clear away the snow and unveil the cracks. Some experienced sherpas who know the corrugations of this icefall should come today to the camp. Because we were the first to climb here this season and made it up to 6 450 m we definitely have some capital to put into a joint-venture cooperation. 6 450 m? After my departure Jan and Jiri continued for another hour but the progress was slow. The number of hidden cracks was growing literally with every step they made and thus they decided to stop at 6 450 m and to camp there overnight. They began their way down at 10 am the next morning.

Up to C1: Hidden Danger All Around

We departed at 3:30 am. The labyrinth is completely different in the night. Thanks to Jan who is extremely good at orientation and who had been always pointing the path before we snaked through the labyrinth of huge icicles already at 6 am. Finally! And right in front of us a beautifully snow capped ridge leading to the C1 arose.

The labyrinth of ice which we had to snake through in the night (here in the daylight)

The climb up went quite alright. It was a hard work indeed but we also appeased our senses and looked back down to the icicle labyrinth now tapped by the sunlight. The higher we were the less power stayed with us, the number of breathe-ins and -outs between a series of steps was growing as well as was the respiratory rate. We were lined with ice walls on our sides and still a good way up was in front of us. If you check various sources they will tell you that the route up goes through a snow and ice corridor on the right side of the ridge. Well, the reality is somewhat less simple.

Suddenly, Jiri found himself stuck waist high in an ice rift. 20 cm of new snow formed a beautiful virgin-like carpet of white but also hid all indications of cracks! "More to the right" I said in order to highlight the assumed better path. Jiri was so taken by the climb that he hadn't even noticed that me and Jan were not fully catching up with him. It was apparent that Jiri is a grinder. By the noon all three of us were resting at the altitude of 6 400 meters. But clouds started to drift across the sky once again and the freezing wind started to blow. We reconned an icy plate during which Jan twice dipped in cracks up to his knees. Then I tough to myself that our goal was becoming less and less feasible and assessed the situation as quite dangerous. Due to that and my acclimatization status I told the guys that we should perhaps go down to the ABC.

Jiri and Jan hesitated for a long time. The danger coming from hidden cracks was growing and the goal marked as C1 was drifting aloft. The powers were diminishing. In our plans we decided to build the C1 altitude camp at 6 750 meters right above the last vault which would mean another 3 hours of climbing. Summing it up the normal goal was fulfilled since the C1 is normally being built at 6 400 m. Finally, I made a deposit from my stuff at 6 400 m and Jan and Jiri continued up fixing each other on a rope. After two hours I was sitting by a tent in the deposit camp and decided to sleep over there, just in case anything would happen up there and my assistance would be needed.

Shades of Haze

We get up with the sunrise at 6:30 and pack our stuff so we can enter the icy labyrinth at about 9:00 am. To reach the ice slope we have to pass the ice towers which takes about 1 - 1,5 hrs. Both Jan and Jiri already tried the track before but we had to look for a way through here and then anyway again. Suddenly, I looked up at the sky and it started to frown in an awkward way. One quick look on the display of my X6 and at 9:30 we came from the labyrinth back to the deposit camp which as at 5 850 meters. The weather has been giving us a hard time.


Huge piles of ice towering near the ice labyrinth (here during the rare nice weather)

The weather forecast said that it should be getting less and less cloudy but the wind speed should be rising on the other hand up to 50 m/s. The night seems to be with no wind so we agree on a night climbing. Jiri, who became the 'beat drummer' of our small team of three, even proposed to be off already at the midnight. That would mean 5 hours of dark night climbing and in extremely cold temperatures. Hence I suggested to get up at 2 am and be off at 3 am. The icy labyrinth will consume two hours of our time and just before the dawn we will be right under the ridge.

The Quest for C1 Begins

Endless walking among stones, ice and icy labyrinths is here


We were off for the so called deposit camp or deposit place where some of our equipment had been stored few days ago. It means walking with a heavy backpack endlessly up and down, up and down, here over an icy hilltop and then through a field of stones where an avalanche thundered down the slope. All of that for about 5 - 7 hours. Jan and Jiri went there few days ago but still the way seemed to have no end. Since both of them spent in the area altogether two days, which also helped them to acclimatize, they walked on fine. I was doing alright as well, the only difference being my 20 kg heavy backpack.

First Hints of Bad Weather Coming

On the 9th the weather staggered again and the barometric pressure decreased by another 2 millibars on my Suunto X6. Since the day we first reached ABC the accumulated decrease totaled 7 millibars which is quite bad. I've been using Suunto for weather prediction since Aconcagua and a considerable decrease of pressure can mean that the weather is going to show off its bad face at least in the lower altitude where the ABC was to be found. That would mean we couldn't continue higher. Also the wind has been blowing for the past six days on and on, its intensity slowly growing, and we can only hope it will appease a bit soon.

So our plan for tomorrow the 10th is to reach the deposit place with a full equipment load (that will take us 6-8 hrs) and bivouac there. Next day we will pass along the icicle towers and start climbing the icefall up to 6400 meters and bivouac there. Then the other day we will try to move on and build C1 altitude camp. If we would manage, with the tolerance from the weather, it'd be just great. We could sleep over in C1 and climb down the other day because of the necessary acclimatization. I will write more right after his try of ours.

Feeling Fine Again

When we decided to break our group for more acclimatization that some of us needed we agreed to meet in the BC again on the 7th. Hence, on the April 7 I felt totally rejuvenated and took a jeep back to the BC. From there I left on the 8th at 5:45 am to meet with my mates again in the ABC. All those 20 km up went on really well and I was sure that the decision to go down to a lower altitude and work a little bit on the acclimatization was the right one.

Thus after 7.5 hrs I was sitting in the mess tent and drank tea. On the table I found a message that my friends went up and would try to build the first altitude camp C1. Our cook also needed more acclimatization thus he left the ABC two days after me and returned back right with me. So on April 8 all of us met as Jan and Jiri came back down. They deposited some equipment that we will need later when going up on the edge where one starts to climb up the icefall. They also marked the path from the deposit place to the start of the climb which was about an hour and a half.

Acclimatization as a Birthday Gift

I would like to thank all of you who wished me for my birthday. That very day I was on the 20 km way back to the Base Camp. I didn't feel well and I also felt that the acclimatization didn't work as I hoped. Exactly this was the reason why we left Kathmandu so quickly and went straight here under the mountains. Thus in case of any problems with acclimatization we would still have time to go down and do something about it. Jiri was feeling very good so he stayed in the Advanced Base Camp. Jan went down to the BC and I aimed even lower for Tingri. So I found myself walking down some 20 km and then it was to Tingri another 120 km in a truck. Tingri is a small town lying under Everest and Cho Oyu and the two days spent there brought some stories of their own. But I would like to keep those for myself yet since I would like to write another book about my adventures and I have to save something for it.

Building the Advanced Base Camp

So it’s April Fools’ Day but we are not much into fooling or fun today. Fortunately, all of us are doing fine but the overall tiredness from the accumulated vertical meters and all the climbing is immense. It’s good that we have finished with building up our base. We cleaned up our tents, finished the installations in the mess tent and erected a tent for our barrels. The latter one is also called as the communications tent because we installed the cables coming from our generator inside it and because we can communicate with the rest of the world via emails and a satellite phone from there. The generator is working so recharging of our equipment, including the GPS equipped Suunto X9i should work alright. First I recharged the satellite phone so that I was able to send you these latest news.

What’s coming next? Tomorrow we are going to see the beginning of the icefall in order to search for the best way to pass it through and along on our way to the first altitude camp C1. Since we are the first expedition here and no previous information is available, we have to survey the whole track through the icefall in order to know exactly how much we will be able to carry over to the C1. The total ascent to C1 will be 1000 vertical meters so the track will not be easy. We will see soon...

Greetings to all of you,

Miro Caban